The Ultimate Guide to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei
A road trip through Namibia should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is an incredibly unique country, with diverse landscapes, ranging from desert to flourishing green riversides, mountains and beaches. Any decent roadtrip should take you to one of the most special little places, Sossusvlei.
Sossusvlei, and more specifically Deadvlei, is by far the most popular tourist destination in Namibia. There is something so magical about the valley of white clay and fossilised trees surrounded by tall red sand dunes.
Though it is so popular among tourists, it is quite remote, which means that it is luckily never completely flooded with people.
Before you leave for Sossusvlei, stock up in a town like Windhoek or Swakopmund. It really is in the middle of nowhere. Don’t worry about water – the lodges source underground water that is perfectly safe to drink. But make sure you have enough food to sustain you – most lodges near Sossuvlei offer meals but they can be a bit pricey. Request a price list before you go if it isn’t on the website, so you can plan accordingly.
Driving to your lodge
The road to Sossusvlei is a long and lonely one. More importantly, it is a dusty and bumpy road. We drove to Sossusvlei from Swakopmund, though on our drive to Windhoek we had a similar experience.
The road is about 80-90% gravel. So, it is important that you have a good idea of how to drive here. It is a very common thing for tourists or inexperienced drivers to cause accidents or damage rental cars, because they just don’t know how to drive on these types of roads. Don’t worry, it’s not as bad as people make it out to be – but it’s still important to be informed.
Of course, driving on a gravel road is a bit different to tar and is more dangerous. Here are some quick tips on driving on a gravel road:
- Drive slower – around 80km/h was perfect for me.
- Keep your headlights on.
- Make your turns wider than usual.
- Deflate your tyres slightly.
- Know how to change a tyre before you drive here.
- Don’t come too close to other cars.
For a more detailed guide on driving in Namibia (especially on gravel roads), check out my post here.
On your way to your accommodation, you will pass the (very) small towns of Solitaire and Sesriem. Stop at Solitaire to try the best apple pie in Namibia, and admire the old cars around the coffee shop. These places will be the last spots to get anything you might need, because the lodges are all a bit remote, so make sure you stock up on any last-minute things.
If you don’t want to rent a car during your trip, or are too nervous to drive on the gravel roads, you can book a shuttle with the tourism group Gondwana to different places in Namibia here. The shuttle has routes all over the country and picks you up directly from your lodge (as long as it is part of the Gondwana group).
On the drive to Sossusvlei
The road from Swakopmund to Sossusvlei will take you past the Kuiseb Canyon. Drive extra slowly here, because the road has many curves here and becomes quite narrow – and there might be a bit of a drop. But on your way, take a bit of time to admire the views of the canyon. Stop by the side of the road and take in the beautiful landscape.
A little further along the way, there is a sign on the side of the road that marks the Tropic of Capricorn.
Where to stay
There is a collection of Lodges you can stay at in the Sossusvlei area. The lodges are all situated near one of the two little towns in the area; Sesriem or Solitaire. Sesriem is a bit closer to Sossuslvei, but is still a 30-minute drive away, while Solitaire is about 1 hour away.
We stayed at the most affordable Lodge in the area, Namib Desert Lodge. Specifically, we stayed at the Camping 2Go, which you could probably call ‘glamping’. It is a big tent with 4 beds, a bathroom built in, with a kitchen and a braai (barbeque). It is fully equipped, so you don’t need to bring anything.
On the lodge, we saw so many animals. I have never seen so many Oryx in a single place in my entire life – and they come so close – they are just so used to people. We had a little jackal that came right up to our campsite one night. We also saw lots of ostriches and guinea fowls, and warthogs that came into the outside dining area where we were eating.
In the area, there are many accommodation options, from luxury lodges to simple campsites. Of course, the campsites are the most affordable option, perfect if you have a 4×4 vehicle with rooftop camping. If you do want to add a bit of luxury to any part of your trip, this is the place to do so!
Here are some accommodation options:
Camping (bring your own tent):
- Sossus Oasis Campsite: from N$190 (€9/$10/£8) pp
- Namib Desert Campsite: from N$259 (€13/$14/£11) pp
- At Kronenhof Campsites: from N$350 (€17/$19/£15) pp
- Camp Gecko: from N$250 (€13/$14/£10) pp
Budget/Mid-priced Accommodation (not camping):
- Soft Adventure Camp: Chalet from N$700 (€34/$37/£30) pp
- BKZ Self-Catering: Apartment from N$750 (€37/$40/£32) pp
- Solitaire Lodge: Rooms from N$1345 (€66/$75/£57) pp
- Solitaire Desert Farm: Rooms from N$1430 (€70/$77/£60) pp
Luxury Lodges:
- The Desert Grace: Rooms from N$4455 (€218/$238/£188) pp
- Le Mirage Resort & Spa: Rooms from N$3260 (€159/$174/£137) pp
- Sossusvlei Lodge: Rooms & Suites from $2365 (€116/$126/£100) pp
- Namib Outpost: Suites from $6500 (€318/$348/£274) pp
- Desert Whisper: $12500 (€612/$669/£526) pp
How to get to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei
The lodges are mostly situated close to the nearby ‘towns’ of Sesriem and Solitaire. The drive to Sossusvlei takes around 45 minutes from Solitaire and 30 minutes from Sesriem.
I would recommend you go super early. The gate opens at 6:00, so try to leave by 5:15 or 5:30 (depending on where you’re staying). I know it’s early, but I promise it’ll be worth it! We arrived at 6:00 and were one of the first groups inside, so the area wasn’t very full yet. It also gets hot very quickly around midmorning.
Bonus – If you’re a photographer, you’ll want that magical shot of the light contrasting on the dunes, which you’ll only be able to get at sunrise.
To enter Sossusvlei, you’ll need a permit, as it is situated in the Namib Naukluft National Park, which is a protected area. You can get your permits the day before you visit, or, like us, you can pay on your way out. We paid around N$150 (8€) per person (Namibians and SADC citizens pay less), as well as about N$50 (3€) for the car.
A little ways past the gate, you’ll get to a parking area. From here, it is only a 5-minute drive to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. Tip: Don’t try to drive your own car through that sand – it is way too soft for anyone to drive there if they don’t have experience with it. There are free cars that take you from the parking lot to the dunes and back.
Once in Sossusvlei you can simply admire the view, or you can take some gorgeous pictures if the light is just right. I would start at the dunes, maybe even stop at the iconic Dune 45 on the way to Sossusvlei to take pictures in the early morning light, and only go to Deadvlei afterwards. Unfortunately, I missed my window because I didn’t time this correctly, but hopefully I’ll visit again sometime soon.
Deadvlei is a white clay pan surrounded by the Sossusvlei dunes. Its charm comes from the array of fossilised Acacia (camelthorn) trees, which make for amazing pictures. It is one of the most unique places I’ve ever traveled to.
You can spend the rest of the trip climbing the dunes, which are some of the tallest in the world. Don’t let the apparent distances fool you, climbing dunes takes much longer than you might think, and it is exhausting. So, make sure you always have a bottle of water with you.
Overall, we only stayed in Sossusvlei for a few hours. We left around lunchtime. You can absolutely spend the entire day here though, because there are tables perfect for picnics and many dunes to climb. Just make sure you bring along lots of water and sunscreen.
If you’re not up for driving yourself, you can organise with your lodge. Most of the lodges offer Sossusvlei excursion packages, from private tours to simple shuttles. Check your accommodation’s website or just ask the receptionist when you arrive about the specific options they offer.
How long should you stay?
Though going to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei only takes a day, at most, I’d definitely recommend staying for at least two nights. Luckily, most lodges offer activities that are quite interesting.
Other things to do in the area
If you have a bit of money to splurge, take a Hot Air Balloon ride over Sossusvlei. I’ve never been, but if I ever have the money, I’d love to do this. From what I’ve heard, it is really a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
At Namib Desert Lodge, we did a Scorpion Night Walk. We were each given a UV flashlight and were guided out into the desert (in the dark, of course) and we all started trying to find scorpions. In the UV light, they basically light up to a neon yellow colour. We (apparently) found a record number of scorpions, at 17 or so. We even found some tiny newborn scorpions!
Many other activities are self-guided, great for anyone craving adventure. There are hiking trails, self-guided walks, and ebiking through the desert.
Also, on the way to the lodge, there is something kind of… weird. You’re in the middle of the desert, surrounded by huge fossilised dunes, and on top of a big rock you’ll find a pink fridge. When you enter the gate to the lodges, ask the security guard where it is. The fridge is usually filled with cold drinks that are refilled by the lodges daily.